Post-Industrial Vegetable Gastronomy

The winter vegetable table of the North German plain: Grünkohl with Kasseler and Pinkel, Kohlrouladen, sauerkraut with apple and juniper, roots roasted in tallow, a creamy mushroom ragout, a February salad of forced greens with mustard vinaigrette, and horseradish cream. It explains why frost sweetens kale and why the braise, it says, improves overnight, and gives yields, labour and failure modes. Braising temperatures were lost in extraction, and its Pinkel replaces pepper but keeps allspice and cloves, both imports.